In the thick of catastrophic fire danger conditions that saw numerous uncontrolled bush fires raging across Southern Queensland and Northern New South Wales, and in the aftermath of a monster storm with hailstones the size of cricket balls that smashed North Noosa on the Sunshine Coast, we flew into Brisbane. Neither of us had ever been to Queensland before, probably with good reason, given how dangerous this wild mysterious Australian state is. We may be lucky to escape with our lives.
Continuing our quest to explore more of our own country, rather than traipsing off overseas at every opportunity, we had planned to take a gentle, relaxing road trip for two weeks up and down the coast either side of Brisbane, before joining our friends Kath and Don from Pemberton on an 11-day cruise to PNG. We arrived at Brisbane Airport on the evening of 18 November to hazy conditions caused by the bush fires. These had improved over the previous day or two, according to locals, so the smoke haze enveloping the city must have been significant.
After a comfortable night in an airport hotel we collected our hire car the following day and set forth towards the Sunshine Coast, 100km north of Brisbane. Basing ourselves at Mooloolaba in a cute little AirBnB garden studio in the suburbs, our induction into the laid-back Queensland beachside lifestyle commenced.
Evidence of the wild storm that ravaged the Sunshine Coast earlier was clear in the fallen limbs and other tree litter scattered throughout the suburb. Several houses and cars had experienced damage from falling trees and we felt thankful to have narrowly missed what locals were calling a cyclonic event. Other than leaf litter and assorted green debris, the Mooloolaba Beach area looked unscathed and most inviting. As with our recent South Australia trip, we had no expectations of Queensland aside from a few recommendations from friends and some preconceived notions of palm-fringed tropical beaches, houses on stilts, dark and steamy rainforests and pumpkin scones featuring prominently in every bakery. On most counts we weren’t disappointed, although we were too far south to see any rainforests and pumpkin scones were noticeably absent.
The Sunshine Coast consists of long stretches of pristine white beaches, many backed by shady semi-tropical trees, giving it a distinctly SE Asian feel. Long promenades and walkways trace a path along the coastline, through parks and natural bushland, punctuated by shopping precincts bearing all the hallmarks of a quintessential Aussie seaside holiday destination (Rip Curl and City Beach stores, burgers, kebabs and pizzas, bars and restaurants, pharmacies and newsagents with stands of postcards, sunglasses and kiddies’ tack).
At nearby Maroochydore, the region’s administrative centre, it’s a shopper’s paradise. Sunshine Plaza is a sprawling cathedral to consumerism with walkways and decks criss-crossing the Maroochy River. In the pre-Summer season of our visit it had a quiet, laid-back feel, belying it’s peak season madness when thousands of holidaymakers descend, cramming the swimming areas, shops and cafes with a seething mass of sunburnt humanity (or so the locals would have us believe). So we felt peaceful and calm as we commenced our Christmas shopping, meandered around the marinas in the evening and lazed luxuriantly on the beach and swam in the Coral Sea by the spit at Mooloolaba and at Cotton Tree. With temperatures in the mid to high 20s and a gentle sea breeze caressing our skin, what could be better?
From Mooloolaba/Maroochydore we made our way north on a slow drive, in search of other places with improbable sounding names. We had booked another three nights at Noosa Heads, a mere 40km further on up the Sunshine Coast. Passing Bli Bli, Mudjimba and Marcoola, we stopped at Coolum Beach, congratulating ourselves on achieving our goal with Noosa still to reach. The landscape became more hilly and rugged and as we approached the busy, bustling centre of Noosa Heads, an increasingly popular holiday spot, we crossed streams and rivers and entered a labyrinth of mangrove inlets and islands.
Turned out we were only the third guests at our Air BnB poolside studio in Noosa, a brand spanking new bedsit in the garden of a sleek modern renovation in the gently rolling hills set back from the beach. After the relative peace and quiet of expansive Mooloolaba, the crazy busy Main Beach of Noosa Heads was a stark contrast. Contained by a rocky outcrop to the east and the Noosa River mouth to the west, the beach felt cramped and crowded and clearly a Mecca for the tanned and the beautiful set. This aside, it’s a striking place – lush semi-tropical vegetation lines the beachfront, walkways meander through miles of parks and playground areas, boat ramps provide access for the hundreds of enthusiastic recreational yachties at Noosaville while roadside cafes, restaurants, bars and shops offer every manner of culinary and consumer options imaginable.
A surprising find during our stay in Noosa was the outdoor market in Eumundi. This sleepy little old town in the hinterland, some 20km inland from Noosa, is transformed on Saturdays and Wednesdays into the nation’s largest artisan markets. Over two and a half hours we perused an amazing array of stalls, many selling interesting and creative artistic products. Set amongst the forest trees on the hillside of the small town, hundreds of stalls jostle side by side as thousands of visitors stroll, chat, eat and drink their way around. It’s quite an experience and we loved it.
The end of our first week in Queensland and what have we discovered to date? For a start, we have felt quite safe, with no immediate signs of fire or rain. So we’ve survived unscathed so far. Secondly, the vegetation is lush and dense, with tall tropical palms, frangipanis in full bloom and a whole host of iconic Aussie plants such as oleander and eucalypts galore. The weather reflects this verdant glory – warm to hot days with some humidity, a sly nod to the steamy heat of peak summer, which is just around the corner.
The coastal terrain is so much more undulating and hilly than Perth’s with rugged rocky coves and bays, wide wild sandy beaches with dumping waves, a plethora of islets and quiet serene waterways and everywhere there are parklands and walkways tracing the water’s edge. With so much water, boating is clearly a popular hobby and pass-time and homes of grand proportions climb the suburban hillsides, taking full advantage of the views. A holiday vibe dominates and the full range of seaside accommodation is evident at every turn. The people too all seem to be in holiday mode. We’ve experienced nothing but cheerful, friendly, laid-back personalities, despite a rising busyness on the streets and the roads – no hurry, no problem, no worries (mate).
All this and the Gold Coast is still to come.
Clapmacks Foray into Retirement 